Saturday, April 19, 2008, 11:53 pm
Ozarks warblers and wildflowers
GREENE CO., MO. — Today I joined the GOAS field trip in Christian County, Missouri.
It’s been a cool, extraordinarily wet spring in the Ozarks, and tree buds are just now starting to open up. Nevertheless, the southern breeding warblers are mostly in place; I personally had eight warbler species including Ovenbird, redstart, parula, yellow-throated, Kentucky, and Pine Warbler during the morning. Boreal breeders like Chestnut-sided Warbler haven’t quite started coming through yet.
Greg Swick tries to point out a Hermit Thrush for a crowd of eager observers. (Greg has posted his own account of the day: Red Bridge Round Up.) It was fun to see my old friends again. They call me a world traveler (which, I suppose, is true) and like to joke that they taught me everything I know (which is probably truer than they realize).
And this is Trillium sessile (which I think sounds nicer than “toadshade”). Sessile means without a stalk, and as you can see, both the flower and the leaflets lack appreciable stalks and are nestled together. More wildflower photos are available in today’s gallery: Ozarks wildflowers.
Next stop, Texas!
Tuesday, April 15, 2008, 12:16 am
Legends live in clouds
MORAVIA, COSTA RICA — You are in a place so still that a falling leaf makes you jump, so tranquil that a buzzing insect makes you flinch. You are breathing off bits of a cloud, for it is all around you. You begin to wonder whether the thunder really is coming from the sky you cannot see or instead from an invisible mountain across the valley, bidding goodnight to its neighbor. And there is birdsong, always there is birdsong, ethereal, strident, modest, wild.
Costa Rica. At last I had escaped the pressures and demands of travel for a private retreat in the Talamanca Cordillera.
On the first morning, I awoke to this — the Resplendent Quetzal — shimmering blue-green in the cool light of dawn. What a bird, easily among the most spectacular in all the world. It has lived in legend for centuries, since at least the time of the Aztecs. Absolutely magnificent.
I stayed at Savegre Mountain Hotel, which is very nice and recommended. They have a system of trails both up the mountain and down the valley, offering up-close access to excellent birds. I couldn’t afford both lodging AND food, but it turns out that electric coffee pots do cook ramen noodles pretty well. I hear their restaurant is good though, so try it if you can. You can explore on your own, as I did, or hire birding guides. Guides can probably help (or at least improve chances) with tough species that I missed, and they say that a guide is required if you want to ascend Cerro de la Muerte (Hill of Death) for the high elevation páramo species. I wasn’t able to afford that either, unfortunately.
I had a respectable 64 species during my three-day stay. This is high-elevation birding, so the diversity is not like the lowlands, but it’s still quite good. Even more important, huge numbers of the species in these mountains are endemic to the highlands of Costa Rica and western Panama. Over a third of the 64 species I saw are restricted to this very small region of the world. Here’s a complete trip list: Savegre Mountain Lodge 2008. Now for more photos:
The key to finding many of the passerine species is watching and listening for mixed flocks foraging in the vegetation. The flocks are often composed primarily of Yellow-thighed Finches (shown here) and Sooty-capped Bush Tanagers, or just a couple of hundred feet lower down the valley, the similar Common Bush Tanager. Mixed in with these species are smaller numbers of warblers, wrens, tanagers, woodcreepers, and funariids.
Funariids (ovenbirds) and woodcreepers are members of the huge Neotropical assemblage of suboscine passerines. Woodcreepers look and behave rather like woodpeckers, even supporting themselves with their tails as they hitch up trunks and limbs, poking around in search of insects. Most ovenbirds in Costa Rica’s mountains are smaller but behave in similar ways, much like nuthatches and small woodpeckers, though members of the family further south are quite different. They are mostly patterened with rusty, buffy, brown, and white shades, not terribly difficult to identify but demanding attention to detail and observation of habits. Fun.
But there are colorful birds too — the brilliant tanagers, euphonias, and chlorophonias. I exclaimed out loud when I first glimpsed a lovely green, yellow, and blue Golden-browed Chlorophonia. And the Collared Whitestarts flit about looking for all the world like tiny clowns.
Then there are the hummingbirds. Magnificent Hummingbirds are large and often look mostly black. But when the males turn toward you, they almost explode with colorful purple and green-blue hues. Little wonder that their specific epithet, fulgens, comes from a Latin word meaning “to flash” or “to shine.”
Green Violetears are abundant around the headquarters sugar water feeders. During confrontations, they can flare those purple face patches out sideways like ears!
At three inches long including the bill, Volcano Hummingbirds are the tiniest bird I’ve ever seen. They’re hardly bigger than a good-sized bumblebee. There are three races in Costa Rica; the one here has a very subdued greenish-gray gorget, as seen in the photo.
Torrent Tyrannulets live along the fast-moving mountain rivers, fluttering moth-like over the water in pursuit of small insects. They are similar in coloration and ecology to the Torrent Flyrobins I observed in Papua New Guinea. I supposed the coloration is advantageous against the rippling water.
Moisture abounds in the cloud forest, and virtually every surface is covered with epiphytic mosses, lichens, orchids, bromeliads, ferns, and liverworts. Ochraceous Wrens, Buffy Tuftedcheeks, and many other species probe the vegetation in search of prey. It’s a soft, soggy, and intricate world.
And there are beautiful flowers, like this begonia, that we may recognize from our gardens. But this is their home, where they flourish and thrive.
Orchids seem to grow fairly high up as epiphytes on limbs and trunks. I saw three or four species in bloom, but they were a bit difficult to photograph.
Are you still reading? Good. I could keep going and going, but I think I’d better point you off to my photo gallery if you’re still hungry for more. I’ve posted almost 90 photos — there are more quetzals, more hummingbirds, other birds, botanical wonders from lichens to tree ferns to heliconias, scenic shots, and even a fish. So have a look, enjoy, and marvel: Savegre Mountain Lodge photos.
Thursday, April 10, 2008, 11:52 am
Pretty boy
Wednesday, April 9, 2008, 6:53 pm
City birds in Lima, Peru
MORAVIA, COSTA RICA — My whirlwind trip through Latin America is now almost over. Much to my disappointment, I had very little opportunity for birding on the world’s birdiest continent, South America. I’m trying to arrange a couple days off here in Costa Rica; we’ll see if it works out.
When I was in Lima, Peru, last month, I took a few photos of urban birds from the balcony of the apartment where I was staying:
This relative of the more northerly White-winged Dove is the bird of Lima, almost invariably present in trees, on sidewalks and roofs, and flying high overhead in flocks containing dozens of birds. Its bare orbital skin is an intense blue color, and unlike its cousin, its iris is dark.
I saw a rare rainfall on my third morning in Lima. Lima is in the Sechura Desert and in most months records its precipitation in fractions of a millimeter. As the water fell, doves all around the neighborhood extended their wings to let drops fall on their feathers, as I’d once seen a Mourning Dove do at home.
Eared Doves are also common in Lima, as they are throughout much of South America. The race in Lima is rather like Mourning Doves with shorter tails, different voices, and some plumage differences.
Vermilion Flycatchers are also fairly common in Lima. Some are brightly colored like the birds in the southern United States, but some birds (like this one) are all-dark sooty morphs.
Lima has two blackbirds — the Shiny Cowbird (female illustrated here) and the Scrub Blackbird. Female Shiny Cowbirds are easy to identify, but male cowbirds and Scrub Blackbirds are tricky at first. Scrub Blackbirds have longer bills and heads; cowbirds have shorter, more conical bills and a short, round head. There are other differences too, but the jizz is fairly easy to call with a few days’ practice.
Thursday, February 28, 2008, 3:22 pm
Birdless Buenos Aires
BUENOS AIRES, ARGENTINA — I’m finishing up a few days in Buenos Aires, Argentina, where summer is drawing to a close and life goes on as usual for 13 million Argentines. It’s a huge, bustling city, and it has very few birds. For the first couple of days, I was convinced that the only bird species present were House Sparrows and Rock Doves.
But yesterday, I picked up a few more species, including Eared Dove (the Mourning Dove equivalent), Cattle Tyrant (a ground-dwelling flycatcher species), and Rufous Hornero (a common, noisy ovenbird).
There is an ecological reserve along the Rio Plato, but we didn’t have time to go. We’re leaving for Paraguay by overnight bus today, so I’m hoping for better luck in a less developed part of the world.
To get from Costa Rica to Argentina, we flew through Miami, where we had a 24-hour layover. I didn’t see any life birds while running around the Keys and the Everglades, but I did see my first Great “White” Heron, and I got some nice pictures, which I hope to post at some point.
Anyway, off to Paraguay!






David J. Ringer

