Manmade grasslands cover huge areas of these populated highland valleys. Those patches that have escaped development inside the Ukarumpa center harbor mannikins, fairywrens, and grassbirds.

White-shouldered Fairywrens (Malurus alboscapulatus) are skulkers, but they have a habit of hitching up the grass stalks, which makes them much easier to observe than obsessively shy grassbirds.

Lovely, tinkling songs or dry, staccato chips announce the presence of these hyperactive birds long before they are actually seen.

Hooded Mannikins (or Hooded Munias, if you prefer) are plainer than some of their relatives, but I’ve always liked their clean, classy look.

I counted 73 mannikins here; this was only a portion of the flock.

Mannikins sweep in flocks over the grasses, alighting to scan their surroundings or munch a few seeds before taking off with a rush and a clamor of tiny voices.