MADANG PROVINCE, PNG — A white speck caught my eye. Something was flying above the trees on the far side of the canyon, and I knew immediately what it had to be: a Sulphur-crested Cockatoo. I saw it land in a tree, and I thought I could just make out its yellow crest. Then it took off again and did not stop flying for as long as I could watch it, flapping, gliding, flashing white from a great distance until finally I let it go.

It was one of those awkward and boring mornings when everything is packed, but it’s not time to go, and there’s nothing much to do. I was more than happy for the time to bird. I hoped that today, on the last day, I’d get amazing views of the lories and little green parrots, but no.

I did see a falcon, though. As it descended, I knew it was a large falcon and not just another Black Kite. It landed on a dead branch in the top of a tree, and I tried to position myself to see it. It was right in front of the rising sun, and the glare was terrible. I walked quickly to the office balcony to try that vantage point. It was even worse. The bird must have been either a young Peregrine Falcon or a Brown Falcon, but the light was so bad I just couldn’t see. What a lousy way to miss a life bird.

Later, looking over the canyon, I saw a dove flying. I followed it until it landed, and though it was distant, I could see its green back, gray head, and what appeared to be a brownish purple breast and pink speckles on its wings. Pink-spotted Fruit-Dove.

And with that, it was goodbye to the lush forest, the heat, the sea, and (I hope) the mosquitoes. Fully-trained, or something, we are bound for Ukarumpa to begin the summer’s work.

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