AUCKLAND, NEW ZEALAND — We flew out of Los Angeles, California, shortly after dark Thursday, June 2. Traveling over 500 miles an hour, we managed to stay in the earth’s shadow for the entire 12-hour flight to Auckland. When we landed, it was 5 a.m. Saturday, June 4. I was a bit disoriented by the loss of an entire day, but at least I’ll get to live August 7 twice.

It was dark in Auckland when we disembarked. I hoped desperately that the sun would rise during our layover, but it did not. I wandered through the airport shops and looked at several field guides to New Zealand birds. I found one that looked good, but I decided not to buy it if I wasn’t going to see any birds there.

When we took off about an hour and half later, a cold blue light had just begun to illuminate the landscape. We flew over a misty marshland and then entered heavy clouds. When we emerged above them, we were flooded by light from the rising sun. I thought I could just make out a tree-covered ridge protruding through the thick layer of clouds, but perhaps I only imagined.

Within an hour, the mountains, grasslands, kiwis, takahes, and other wonders I want so much to see were hundreds of miles behind us.

BRISBANE, AUSTRALIA — Dozens of swallows flew back and forth in front of the windows at the Brisbane airport. They appeared to be nesting up under the roof. I studied them as best I could without binoculars. They were brown above with pale rumps and underparts. I’ll have to get a book of Australian birds on our return trip and see if I can identify them. What looked like a Barn Swallow or two was mixed in with the other swallows.

I also saw several dark dove-like birds flying past quickly, often in pairs. I have no idea what they were. If it is a widespread species, perhaps I’ll see them better in Sydney in August.

The landscape was flat and dry as far as I could see, but soon we left it far behind.

PORT MORESBY, PAPUA NEW GUINEA — Air Niugini’s planes are emblazoned with a stylized Bird-of-Paradise. If all goes well, I’ll see the real thing before long!

We caught our first glimpses of the coast through clouds as we descended into the capital city. I saw what looked like House Sparrows through one of the windows. It was very hot. A short time later, we’d boarded yet another plane.

MADANG, PNG — Palms and other trees covered the land below. Thatched-roof houses made small clearings in the green.

When we landed, we walked across the runway to an open-air shed and waited in the sweltering heat as our bags were unloaded by hand and driven over to be placed atop a small, dirty counter. I saw a dark raptor flying over the short grass near the runway, and I watched a black-and-white bird atop a metal-roofed building. It was small and slender with a very long tail that was whisked continually from side to side. It was all black except for a pure white belly. My first life bird in PNG! — if I can identify it later from my field guide.

The camp where we’re staying is atop a mountain overlooking the city. The ride up was rough and harrowing. We arrived at the top as the long, long day finally drew to a close.

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